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Warburg 2000 Conference


T
HANKING JAVIER and Carmen politely, I return to the piles of work on my desk: family member petitions, questionable marriage cases, Congressional inquiries. Later I take a break at the office microwave to warm up a container of leftover black bean and rice congrí, cooked by my part-time maid, a trained biologist.

“Working late again?” smiles my boss, walking past me to the door. I nod through a bite of the food, which tastes bland and somehow muddy. I stay until long after the sun must be gone from the sea outside my windowless office. Nothing in my dark house, with the listening devices in its walls like undiscovered malignancies, entices me to go home.

The next morning a freshly-washed sport-utility vehicle pulls up in front of my fence, picking me up for the beach. The two junior officers from my section, who have seemed lately to be striking up a romance, help me load in my gear. The visitors from Washington make room for me in the back seat. For them this is a great adventure.

Our first stop is the Diplomercado, Havana’s hard-currency supermarket. We push through the glass doors into coolness and a smell of old meat and stale air conditioning. Some shelves are empty. One aisle contains nothing but rows of bottles of a single brand of cooking oil. We are in luck — a few treasures beckon from the snack aisle. Crackers from Italy. Cookies from Trinidad and Spain. We select a few of each. The visitors from Washington heft six-packs of American soft drinks, imported through Mexico.

Cubans in a separate checkout line, clutching worn Yankee dollars, are buying soup bones, sugar, bottles of oil. Many receive money from their U.S. relatives. Others work the black market or scramble to earn tips. The country’s economy is slowly turning over, like a huge, doomed ship. Hotel porters, waitresses, black market cigar peddlers, and carvers of tourist trinkets emerge, blinking, on top. Bewildered professionals salaried at $20 a month hustle after-hours in taxis.

Back in the car, we leave the city behind, cruising along the empty highway through rolling grasslands broken up by clusters of dignified royal palms. A straw-hatted farmer is cutting tall, thick grass by the roadside to haul away in a wooden cart. Sugar cane in its dense fields looks like grass too. A haze of sun hangs over everything.

We pass another vehicle every few miles. An old American car with a flapping trunk that says, in neat script, “DeSoto.” A motorcycle with sidecar, stuffed with excited children. An open Soviet truck with stoic, wind-whipped passengers crowded in the back. Another truck, billowing out black smoke that fills the roadway.

The billboards are all political. “Our People and Party Will Never Forsake Their Unity.” “Socialism: Stronger than Ever.” My colleagues and the visitors from Washington share a good laugh over that one. I used to think the signs were funny too, but now they just make me sad. Back in Havana, the party youth center is decorated with a series of placards that read, in order: Computing. Popcorn. Roller Skating. Cool Drinks. Union of Young Communists. Socialism or Death.

We turn off the highway and wind through villages. One-story concrete block houses stand in dusty yards. Their occupants sit on open porches, in heavy square wooden rocking chairs.

The others in the car continue talking and joking. The visitors from Washington discuss people I don’t know. At times they attempt to include me in the conversation. Yet soon they are rattling on about something else, and I am looking out the window again. On one porch, a mother and daughter sit at a small table, hands busy with a heap of dried beans. I know what they are doing. They have received their rations for the month, and they are picking out the bits of straw and tiny stones.

My mind returns to Javier as a tongue insists on exploring a damaged tooth. I think wildly of marrying him, liberating him.

In the real world, though, I cannot even get close to this man I hardly know. He would surely lose his job or be required to exploit me for some socialist purpose. The State Department, for its part, does not look kindly on relationships between its officers and citizens of hostile nations. I could derail my career, be shipped home in disgrace.

No, it is impossible. I will never know if I could have loved Javier in a more ordinary place.

I close my eyes for a moment but am soon jolted back to attention as the car bounces through a series of potholes. We wind past walls of cane stalks and emerge abruptly onto a beach where scrubby pine trees grow almost to the edge of the calm blue water.

Off the tourist track, this coral inlet has no infrastructure, just a few abandoned concrete foundations with collapsing walls. We can be confident that no trio in swirly purple-and-mustard shirts will suddenly pop up, strumming guitars and singing “Guantanamera” or “Comandante Che Guevara,” dollars suggestively peeking out of their breast pockets.

Cuban beach-goers sit on rocks under the trees, drinking beer from unlabeled brown bottles, or stand chest-deep in the water, talking in small groups. Children in damp underwear wallow in the sand at the water's edge, playing with sticks and other found objects.

We, on the other hand, emerge with a plastic garbage bag and aggressively clear our chosen patch of beach, removing soggy cardboard, rusty cans and fibrous mango seeds. We then colonize our little outpost, deploying a large blanket, a cooler, several magazines, a bottle of 45-factor sunscreen and duffel bags of expensive snorkeling gear.

Satisfied with their efforts, my colleagues and the visitors from Washington pop open their sodas and settle comfortably onto the blanket. Nearby, two muscular, fully-dressed young men lean against a pine trunk, watching us, their faces somehow alert and bored at the same time.

I strap on my mask and flippers and escape into the sea. Soon the first coral masses, bristling with fish, appear in the sun-filled water.

The reef is shallow, built up almost to the surface. I swim carefully over its intricate forms. My own echoed breathing through the snorkel mingles with the sea creatures’ faint clicking sounds. A tiny, bright purple and yellow fish glows against the rounded surface of a brain coral. I think of pointing it out to someone, and the first person I think of is Javier. I am suddenly aware of a dull ache of sadness, along with the sensual, salty taste of the sea.

Back at the shore, a man with brushy white hair approaches our blanket, offering lobsters for sale. The Washington visitors strike up a conversation in American-accented Spanish. The man, a retired laborer, supplements his tiny pension — five dollars a month — by fishing. He fishes to feed his family, and if someone will pay dollars for his catch, so much the better. But we must decline the lobster. Our surveillance team under the pine tree would be only too happy to report us for black-market trading.

Later, as I am walking alone down the beach, the fisherman comes up with another offer. From somewhere he produces a dirty plastic grocery bag containing a struggling sea turtle. A few children gather, and the fisherman sets the animal down on the sand, holding it by the shell, enjoying his role as showman and brave turtle-tamer. The turtle reaches out with its strong front flippers and tries vigorously to escape, straining its pale, sinewy neck forward, excited by the sight or scent of the sea.

What did you catch it for, I try to ask. Turtle, says the fisherman proudly. I back off from the circle of children. Buying the turtle from him and setting it free would just encourage him to catch more, I tell myself. Another moral hazard. I return to the blanket.

Later, as we are loading the car, the fisherman approaches me again. “Are you going to take the turtle?” he asks eagerly. Again I attempt to ask why, and this time he explains. You coat the shell with lacquer, and you mount it. “Muy lindo.” Very beautiful, he asserts with pride.

Oh. Now I recall the shiny, shield-like objects hanging in some rafters’ homes. Like the little crocodiles in the craft markets, frozen with their toothy mouths forever open, mounted on rough ovals of wood upon which someone has written a cursive “Cuba” with a felt-tip marker. I stand there without saying anything. My colleagues brush the man off with practiced politeness.

As we return to Havana in the late afternoon, the hitchhiking women lined up along Quinta Avenida lunge determinedly into our path. They retreat in disappointment as they glimpse the mixed group inside the car.

In bed that night, I fall asleep quickly but suddenly wake as an overpowering roar fills the room. The power has gone off, causing the huge diesel generator in my yard to crank up with the sound and smell of an idling tractor-trailer. Shards of my interrupted dream return: something urgent, about Javier. I am surprised to find my face wet with tears.

I flip over my damp pillow and try to fall back to sleep amid the noise. But something else is bothering me, something sick and ugly at the edge of my consciousness that will not go away. I call it up reluctantly. It is the turtle. Straining as long as it lives for the open sea that it senses so near, while the old man smiles over it fondly.  
 

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The author earned an M.A. in German literature at the University of Georgia. She, with her husband, has served at four U. S, Foreign Service posts abroad since 1990.


About the Author
Previously by Patricia Linderman in American Diplomacy:
 

On medical encounters in Cuba in the late 1990's, in Doctors for Dollars:
"As a pediatric specialist and surgeon, ['Dr. Eduardo'] earned about 400 pesos per month. With that sum he could buy tiny cups of thick Cuban coffee, a few scrawny vegetables at the recently legalized farmers' markets, and entry into cultural facilities such as the Museum of the Struggle of the Ever-Vigilant People." [Autumn 1999]

In an interview carried in the same issue of this Journal, Ms. Linderman also responded to questions concerning general conditions in Cuba during her assignment there. [click here]

Elsewhere in
"Life in the Foreign Service"
 

William Dale, on Prime Minister Lester 'Mike' Pearson of Canada:
"At an informal reception given by my boss, the American minister, in the spring of 1948 in Ottawa, I met the [then] Canadian undersecretary for external affairs, Lester Pearson. To my surprise and pleasure he went out of his way to chat with that lowest form of diplomatic life, a third secretary and vice consul (my rank at the time). [click here]

Charles G. Stefan, in a personal view of Kissinger and CSCE Negotiations:
"In early 1974, the fate of the well-known Russian dissident, Aleksandr I. Solzhenitsyn, was a behind-the-scenes concern to the Western delegations at the CSCE. Deputy Foreign Minister Anatoli Kovalev, the head of the Soviet delegation reportedly played an important role in the resolution of the situation then facing us at that time. This situation lasted until Solzhenitsyn was expelled to the West instead of being incarcerated in the U.S.S.R. According to Kovalev’s own account many years later, he was instrumental in the Kremlin’s decision in the case. Kovalev reportedly argued then that a decision to jail Solzhenitsyn would mark the end of the Helsinki process." [click here]

 

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