December 1991our first couple of weeks in Tirana:
A colleague and I pay a courtesy call on the management of the hotel where we are all living. We struggle with the chief of reception to find a common language. "Shqip (Albanian)," he says, "Français, Español " "¿Español?" I say. "Really?" and suddenly we are conversing in my second tongue. It turns out that Zoti Perparim studied in Cuba and served as an Albanian diplomat in Latin America for sixteen years. At the peak of his career he was the Albanian Ambassador to Mexico. Then, in 1985, he committed an unpardonable sin: at a diplomatic reception he shook hands with the American Ambassador. He and his family came back to Albania in disgrace. For five years neither Perparim nor his wife (a doctor) were able to find employment in Tirana. Only recently did Perparim begin to work at the hotel reception desk.
January 19, 1992
"Your Excellency," responds the Ambassador, "All of us have already begun to study Albanian."
"Does she understand any Albanian?" asks the President.
"Yes," says the consul, answering directly in Albanian. "I know a few words and I hope to learn more."
The President is enthralled. "Say something else in Albanian!" he cries. The consul hesitates, slightly flustered. Then she says: "I am very pleased to meet you." The President beams. Later my colleague confesses that her mind had gone blank at the Presidents request. For a moment, she said, the only phrase she could remember from language class was: "Waiter, the tablecloth isnt clean."
February 21, 1992
"Poppa was born in Albania just before the turn of the century. (No one remembers the exact date of his birth.) He immigrated to America shortly after W.W.I. After a few years of hard work, Poppa became a U.S. citizen and then he returned to Albania for a pre-arranged marriage. He stayed in Albania for only a few months, however; then left his pregnant wife behind and returned to America. During the 1920s and early 1930s Poppa returned to Albania periodically, and after each visit a new child was born - a child that acquired U.S. citizenship at birth under the law of the day. When World War II broke out the family lost contact with Poppa (who remained in the States) and the children grew up fatherless. In order to avoid persecution from the communists, the family concealed its ties to America, ties that became more and more tenuous as time went by. Sometime in the 1970s the family somehow received word that Poppa had died in America.
Now Poppas children are in their fifties and sixties; they are parents and grandparents themselves. And they are coming to the U.S. embassy in Tirana to tell their tales. Many of themprobably the majorityare not interested in the U.S. passport to which they are entitled. The $65 passport fee is an enormous hurdle for them, and besides, what good would a new passport be? They cant possibly afford airfare to America and they recognize that it is too late for them to start their lives over in a strange land. Mostly Poppas children come to the embassy to seek financial aid. Did Poppa perhaps leave an estate? Are they entitled to a social security check? Can they get welfare checks or food stamps from the U.S. government?
Generally speaking the Embassys answer is not exactly what Poppas children want to hear. First we must document that Poppas children are indeed U.S. citizens, a task that the passage of time has made extremely difficult. Can someone in the United States be persuaded to spend hours looking for a copy of Poppas certificate of naturalization in the archives? The case may depend on it. But even if documentation proving the claim to citizenship is uncovered, the federal benefits to which the claimants are entitled may not be substantial. And yet, as I meet these lost Americans, I get the impression that they are satisfied by their visits to the Embassy regardless of what we tell them. They are satisfied because at last their stories have been told.
March 2, 1992
Two or three times a week Jane goes jogging early in the morning with a sixteen-year-old high school student named Elton. Jane appreciates the security that Eltons company provides and Elton appreciates the chance to practice his English with Jane. In high school Elton is learning the Basic computer language, a language that went out of fashion in the United States several years ago. Eltons high school once had an old Olivetti computer on which to run the Basic programs, but in the general anarchy of the last year, the computer was stolen. Now the instructor writes programs on the blackboard and the students copy them into their notebooks; thus computer programming is "taught" without the benefit of computers.
Elton was ecstatic when Jane invited him to try some of his Basic programs on our personal computer. None of them worked. Elton took them back to the author, his computer instructor, who suggested a few revisions. Elton tried again but the programs still wouldnt run. I can only wonder how many Tirana high school students carry notebooks full of invalid computer programs written in an obsolete computer language.
March 21, 1992
April 26, 1992
While driving to Greece for a holiday, I am forced to stop by a car that has broken down in the middle of the roadnot an unusual occurrence here. The car following us is unable to stop in time, and he rear-ends our Nissan (also not a surprising event, given most Albanians lack of experience with automobiles). The damage to our car is minimal: a gash in the bumper and a broken taillight lens. The driver of the car that struck us insists that we must report the incident to the police, however, so we stop in the next town to inform a policeman of what has happened. A crowd gathers around us as the policeman, the other driver and I discuss the matter. The policeman tells me that we must go to a police station in another town to make a written declaration.
"Im not interested in making a report," I say. "Nothing really happened. My car is fine. There is no problem."
"But you say that the other man was at fault," counters the policeman. "How can we be sure that you wont file a claim against him later? No, we must investigate and file a complete report today." The other driver nods in agreement.
Two images enter my mind: on the one hand, an afternoon in a cold, dark, smoke-filled police station where we argue endlessly about the details of the non-event in the classic Balkan style. After hours of jabbering, much of which I will not comprehend, I will be rewarded with a useless police report. As a consequence of the lost afternoon, Jane and I will end up spending the night in unheated Albanian hotel room, possibly without water or electricity. Dinner, if we can find any, will be uninspired at best. The other image in my mind is of our destination: the Hilton Hotel on the Greek island of Corfu. Our room in the Hilton will be warm, bright, and cozy. The bathroom will have hot and cold running water. Downstairs the restaurant will offer a variety of western dishes and I will order a chicken breast smothered in mushrooms (my fantasy meal for more than three months now). I must avoid the first alternative.
"There is no need for a report," I say. "I will not file a claim."
"But how can we be sure?" the policeman insists.
"I give you my besa," I say. The crowd murmurs in appreciation. The American offers his besa! That settles it. The policeman, the other driver and I all shake hands before the crowd of at least forty onlookers, and I drive onwards to Corfu.