Quietude can be downright pleasurable, particularly as one grows older.
I reflected on this while observing (via short-wave radio and satellite TV news) the worlds turmoil at the start of the New Year from the vantage point of one of its true backwaters. Wars in the Middle East, the US on code orange homeland security alert, terrorist threats disrupting international aviation Niger seems so quiet and normal its almost boring.
This somnolence was threatened over the past couple of years. In the wake of 9/11, with the US going to war in Afghanistan and Iraq and global terrorism dominating world news, it seemed that this overwhelmingly Muslim country, dirt-poor and politically fragile, might become, lets say, more exciting. And it did have a moment in the international spotlight, thanks to its uranium mines and Joe Wilson.
However, the storms of war, terrorism and culture clashes have thus far passed us by. Niger has remained peaceful, quiet and terrorism-free. It has even registered some economic and political progress, as the rains have been good, aid donors have been reasonably generous, and a stable, democratic government has become fairly well established after a decade of military coups and civil war in the 90s.
Nigers problems remain enormous, perhaps insoluble. Its the worlds second poorest country, with fragile institutions, and its located in an environmentally harsh and politically turbulent region. But compared to much of the rest of the world, it seems quiet, peaceful, normal, even safe.
I was bemused by a call to Peace Corps Headquarters by the mother of one of our Volunteers, in reaction to the December code orange terrorism alert in the US, asking that her daughter be sent home immediately. I sympathize with a parents concern, but there is probably nowhere in the US and certainly not on a flight headed there as safe from global terrorism as the rural village in Niger where her daughter lives.
The Volunteers continue to do great work and to enjoy being in Niger, while Tuy-Cam and I enjoy their company and the privilege of supporting them. After our fourth holiday season in Niamey, this still seems the right place for us to be. On the other hand, weve pretty much concluded that five years will be enough of this good thing, and we expect to return home in the summer of 2005.Adventures in Service
Most of them seem to have both in abundance. Two recent events highlighted the adventure side of the ledger.
Three of our current Volunteers, Kelley Bishop, Cam Caswell and Erica French, decided to retrace the voyage down the Niger River of Mungo Park, the 19th Century explorer who discovered and mapped its course. For their vacation, they took a bus from Niamey to Gao, in Mali, from where they rented a bush taxi to take them to Timbuktu. After a couple of days in Timbuktu, they purchased a typical wooden pirogue and spent the next 18 days floating down the river from Timbuktu to Niamey.
Rita Herkel and Chantel Brennan, at the conclusion of their service with Peace Corps/Niger (which both had extended for several months beyond the required two years), joined a group of Wodabe people to live in the Sahara as nomads for three months. This too was an amazing adventure for two young American women. While I couldnt permit a serving Volunteer to do this sort of thing (I have to always know where they are, at least when theyre in Niger, and be able to contact them in the event of an emergency), I admire Rita and Chantel for doing it. During their time as Volunteers, they had developed the language and cross-cultural skills to do it successfully and with relatively low risk.
These young Americans are surely among our countrys best, and Im proud of them. They are risk-takers by nature otherwise they wouldnt join the Peace Corps. After mastering the challenges of living in a village in Niger, Im confident that they can handle just about any challenge that the future may bring them.Brendans Health Hut
Brendan St. Amant managed to bring a health hut to his village.
In Niger, the health system is rudimentary at best. There are hospitals, staffed by doctors, in a dozen of the largest towns; and clinics, staffed by nurses, in some of the larger regional villages. Most people, however, have little if any access to health care. Niger has fewer than 250 doctors (about the same number you would expect to find in an American city of 100,000 people) to serve a population of 12 million; and annual per capita expenditure for health care is about $10 (compared to $5440 in the US).
The people of Brendans village, located 17 kilometers from the nearest rural clinic, wanted one of these health huts, and Brendan made sure that they got it. He went with village leaders to approach government officials (access is much easier if you have a foreigner along), worked with the building contractor during construction, arranged training for a young man from the village to become the health worker, and persuaded Catholic Relief Services to provide the initial stock of medicine and supplies when the government proved unable to do so. In short, he was the driving force behind the project. Tuy-Cam and I visited Brendan and his health hut in December, and he told us about some of the many obstacles he had to overcome and the frustrations he experienced. Such a facility might not be a very difficult project in America, but in rural Niger it is a monumental accomplishment.
Activities like this, multiplied by an average of 100 Volunteers and extended over the 42 years that Peace Corps has been active in Niger, have surely had a positive impact on how Americans and America are perceived by the people of this country.
While the typical Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger is a recent college graduate, age 22-25, we have a few who are older, including three who are over 50.One of these senior Volunteers is Helen Becky Ramos, who came here with her husband Rick just over a year ago.
Peace Corps recently decided to expand its recruitment efforts among community college students, and as a community college graduate, Becky was asked to write something about her experience to be used in the campaign. Here is what she wrote: