Sliders, cooters, painted turtles and map turtles all resemble each other superficially, and require similar care. Their shells are disc-shaped and relatively flat. Sliders, cooters and maps generally are colored some shade of green or brown, while painteds are black. All of these turtles have stripes of lighter color on their skin and occasionally on their shells; on a map turtle these stripes are so intricate that they give the turtle its common name. Sliders and cooters are hardy turtles and usually do well in captivity. However, they grow quite large, with some types approaching two feet, although most common species only grow to about 12 inches in length. Painted turtles are smaller and somewhat less hardy, while map turtles require the most attention to thrive. A wide variety of exotic turtles are intermittently available, such as leaf turtles, African mud turtles, and snake-necked turtles. Juvenile snappers and softshell turtles are also sold, but their large adult size and aggressive behavior make them unsuitable for all but the most dedicated turtle-keepers.
For those keepers interested in smaller turtles, mud and musk turtles are fascinating creatures. Most are about half the size of the sliders and painteds. Unlike the saucer-shaped sliders, these turtles have taller, steep-sided shells that are longer than they are wide. While their brownish color scheme is drab compared to the colorful sliders, what they lack in appearance they make up for in personality. Mud and musk turtles have lived for fifty years in captivity - with proper care they are quite hardy. No matter what turtle you decide upon, investigate its natural history. Ernest, Lovich and Barbour's Turtles of the United States and Canada or Ernst and Barbour's Turtles of the World are good starting points.
The most common way to keep semi-aquatic turtles in captivity is in an aquarium. For many species, this works well, if you keep in mind the specific turtle and how it lives normally. There are a number of basics that are common to water turtle setups. The aquarium should be large enough to give the turtle adequate swimming room in both length and depth. Only juveniles can be kept in small aquariums, and they will outgrow them, so you might as well start with a bigger tank to save money and time! Adult sliders, for example, require a very large aquarium, especially if breeding is desired. The water level should be deeper than the turtle is wide - shallower water may prevent the turtle from righting itself if it flips over, a possibly fatal situation. There should be no place underwater in the tank where the turtle could get wedged in such a way that it cannot get to the surface to breathe.
The aquarium does not require decorations, but a land area should be provided where the turtle can haul out and dry off. Worn driftwood or smooth flat rocks work well, as they will be the least likely to rub or scratch the turtle's shell as it climbs out of the water. Position a spotlight over the area to simulate the sun, allowing the turtle to bask. A fully submersible water heater helps keep the water at a reasonable temperature year-round - from 75 to 85 degrees for many chelonians. Most turtles do very well with this minimal setup: a large, deep, undecorated, heated aquarium with a spotlight over a flat rock on which they can dry off and sun themselves. However, other equipment makes things easier for both the turtle-keeper and the turtle. For example, a timer for the light is helpful, while a water filter will keep the water clear of larger debris and increase the time between water changes.
Once you have decided on the kind of turtle, designed a habitat, and set it up appropriately, it is time to acquire the turtle. Starting with a captive-bred chelonian gives the novice turtle-keeper the greatest chance for success. Captive-born animals have been acclimated since birth to the presence of humans. This means that they are much less likely to be stressed by people and captive conditions, and stress is often a contributing factor in the death of wild-caught reptiles. Captive-born turtles are also less likely to be heavily parasitized, as they probably have not encountered as many infectious organisms as their counterparts in the wild. However, do not expect a captive-born animal to be free of parasites - they can be picked up from their habitats and from food items! Finally, buying captive-born turtles reduces stress on possibly endangered native populations.
Turtles can be obtained from many different sources. Professional and amateur breeders are increasing in number, making captive-bred turtles more readily available. These breeders often advertise in the various reptile-oriented magazines and in the classifieds sections of the larger herpetological society newsletters. These societies are another good source of turtles. In addition to providing the chance to meet local breeders, many societies have rescue programs for reptiles. Often you can adopt semi-aquatic turtles (especially red-eared sliders) for free or for a small fee. Adoptions help the turtle, your wallet, and the herp society, and I highly recommend it as an option. Reptile dealers usually have many of the more common turtle species available, and will ship them to the airport nearest you. These dealers carry a mix of wild-caught and captive-born individuals; the ratio varies from dealer to dealer. Finally, pet stores sometimes have turtles for sale - usually these are wild-caught adult turtles. Pet stores rarely carry hatchling turtles, as Federal law prohibits the sale of turtles with a shell length of less than four inches. The law was enacted in the early 1970's to prevent the widespread sale of hatchling red-eared sliders, due to fear of Salmonella poisoning through mis-handling of the turtles.
If possible, examine a number of turtles before deciding which one to purchase. Healthy semi-aquatic turtles have clear, bright eyes that are neither protruding nor sunken. The nostrils should be clear of any debris, and the turtle's breathing should be silent. When picking up the animal, take note of how it holds its head and legs. The turtle should be able to support the weight of its head, while its legs should not hang down limply. Most chelonians react swiftly to sudden motions or to being picked up, although this may depend on how tame the turtle has become. Finally, ask to feed the turtle; most healthy water turtles seem to be perpetually hungry!
The first thing a newly acquired turtle should receive is a thorough inspection by a veterinarian. Even if the turtle appears totally healthy, a checkup will make sure that no parasites are lurking undetected. Also, a visit to the vet with a healthy turtle allows the turtle-keeper a chance to inspect the vet, too. It is much better to learn that the vet you've chosen isn't comfortable with reptiles when your turtle is healthy than to discover that fact during a life-threatening emergency! Finally, the initial visit gives the vet a chance to see the turtle when healthy; this knowledge can be invaluable later if the turtle becomes ill.
New turtles should be left alone for a while, to allow them to become acclimated to their new home. They should be fed every other day, in quantities that can be consumed in a few minutes. Overfeeding leads to too-rapid growth and obesity, both potentially harmful to your turtle. Depending on the species, a varied diet of vegetables, insects and earthworms should be provided. Alternately, a prepared food, such as Tetra's ReptoMin or Wardley's Reptile Ten, can be offered. Feeding turtles in a separate container reduces the amount of food debris in the water, increasing the time between water changes.
This article can only give potential turtle-keepers a push in the right direction. Further reading and preparation will greatly increase your chances of success. Potential keepers should ask themselves some tough questions before obtaining a turtle. Are you willing to do the proper research to decide which turtle would be appropriate? Can you provide the correct care and habitat for that turtle? Will you be able to care for the turtle for years, perhaps decades, to come? If the answers to these questions are "yes", then turtle-keeping can provide you with many years of enjoyment.
Ernst, Carl H. and Barbour, Roger W., Turtles of the World, Smithsonian Institution Press, 1989.
Ernst, Carl H., Lovich and Barbour, Roger W., Turtles of the United States and Canada, Smithsonian Institution Press, 1996.
de Vosjoli, Philippe, The General Care and Maintenance of Red-eared Sliders and other Popular Freshwater Turtles, Advanced Vivarium Systems, 1992.
Highfield, Andy C., Practical Encyclopedia of Keeping and Breeding Tortoises and Freshwater Turtles, Carapace Press, 1996.
Pritchard, Peter C. H., Encyclopedia of Turtles, TFH Publications, Inc., 1979.
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