This website is dedicated to providing updated information regarding a summer long pilot study of Kill Devil Hills Beach on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Hosting of this site is made possible by the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and funding for this research has been provided by the US Army Corps of Engineers.
Please address any questions to Greg Dusek, Department of Marine Sciences at UNC Chapel Hill at gdusek@email.unc.edu.
The goal of this study is to combine observational data including directional wave data, nearshore bathymetry and surf zone dynamics to better understand the processes in the surf zone, most significantly those that pose a risk to human safety. The study will predominantly focus on rip currents and shorebreak. Please see the study description for more information.
Powerpoint slides of the seminar "Predicting Rips: Utilizing nearshore observational data to improve our ability to forecast rip currents" can be found here:
.pptx format (powerpoint 2007) or .ppt format (old powerpoint)
New Update! A video showing the installation of the 2 ADCPs near Kill Devil Hills.
Rip currents are the number one cause for rescues and drownings at the beach (USLA). Many of these instances could be avoided if people had an understanding of what rip currents are and how they can be avoided. Having a basic understanding of rips is the best way to avoid dangerous situations. Here is more information regarding rip currents.
This study is supported through the effort of numerous organizations and individuals. A list of those involved can be found here.
Links to sites relevant to rip currents, oceanography and observational data can be found here.