This page describes the way I check my ferrets' blood sugar levels. This is not the only way to do it; it is simply what has worked out for me and is the easiest, most stress-free way of getting a ferret's blood sugar I have found so far. If you decide to try this, please consult with your vet. This guide is in no way meant to supplant recommendations from your vet. If you have a ferret with insulinoma (or diabetes), it is absolutely critical that you are working with a vet to manage your ferret's care. Blood sugar values should be reported to your vet and the vet's recommendations followed for changing medications, etc. Advice about medication doses, etc, are not a part of this guide for these reasons.
NOTE: MANY people have found that the Freestyle glucometer is simply not reliable with ferret blood. Very often, the glucometer reports a false-low value (a reading that is significantly lower than it is when compared with the reading from a vet's chemistry analyzer). If you have found a glucometer that is reliable with ferret blood, please let me know at pjdutche@email.unc.edu.I am a layperson and do not know why this occurs. The Freestyle has not been validated for ferret blood. Anecdotally, it might have something to do with the high hematocrits that ferrets have. I personally had a ferret that lost a lot of blood during a surgery, and it was very accurate while she was anemic, and then as she recovered and her hematocrit became high once again, her blood sugar started testing low on the glucometer. If you have a story to share, or if you have tested your Freestyle against your vet's equipment, please let me know at pjdutche@email.unc.edu.
This page outlines a technique that can be used for stress-free blood sugar testing in a ferret.
NEW NOTE: There is a promising new glucometer out that takes the same tiny sample of blood as the Freestyle, and it was designed for dog/cat blood, which also is not always accurately read by glucometers designed for humans. The technique for blood sampling from ferret toes outlined on this page should work with this glucometer. It is called the AlphaTRAK and it is by Abbot. You will probably need to get it through your vet. Information:
Press Release
Info from Abbott Animal Health website
If anyone has feedback on this, please let me know at pjdutche@email.unc.edu.
Read your Freestyle's manual very carefully, and do not forget to register the value from your test strips the first time you use the glucometer and each time you get a new batch of strips. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for maintenance, normal control solution checking, etc. I should probably add that the Freestyle has not formally been tested with ferret blood, and I am sure Therasense would not endorse this web page.
Keep in mind: This is a skill you are developing. It is also a new routine to which you and your ferret will become accustomed. Do not expect to have it work perfectly every single time, especially in the beginning. To start with, try it out on yourself, so that you can learn just how much vaseline to use, what size blood bead works, how to touch the blood bead to have the strip draw in the blood, etc. Then, once you have the mechanics down, you can add in the variable of your ferret (change to a new lancet). At first, expect to waste about half of your test strips. With a bit of practice, you will probably achieve an 85-95% success rate. Even once you and your ferret are both very used to this, there will still be the occasional failure caused by an ill-timed jerk of the foot, a dull lance, etc... I still find it very much worthwhile and even comforting to be able to track my insulinoma ferrets' blood sugars at home.
It is important to have everything together before you get started. Pictured are the needed supplies, except for the Ferretone, alcohol, and couple of paper towels.
- Vaseline or generic equivalent petroleum jelly.
- Freestyle Glucometer from Therasense. This can be purchased online, at Wal-Mart, or at nearly any pharmacy. Mine was around $65 came with a $40 mail-in rebate.
- Lancing device; the one I use came with my Freestyle. Note that it is set to "5" and is using the blue cap rather than the clear one.
- Freestyle test strips. The monitor comes with 10. After that, they can be purchased online, at Wal-Mart, or at nearly any pharmacy. These get expensive; prices vary widely but are usually between 50 cents and a dollar each.
Now, go and get your ferret. You can do the whole procedure all by yourself, with no helper, if necessary. If your ferret was sleeping and her paw pads look sort of pale, let her wake up a bit to get the circulation going. Place your ferret on her back in your lap, and place a bit of ferretone on her belly. Many people trim their ferrets' toenails this way; if so, the ferret will be accustomed to this routine. If your ferret has never had this done before, it may take a few seconds to get her relaxed. Offer the Ferretone from the bottle and then place some on her belly and direct her snout towards it.
Once your ferret is thoroughly distracted, you can begin. Select a hind toe. Choose one that has a fairly large flat bare skin area. Well, as large as you will find on a tiny ferret toe, anyway! Wipe the toe off with a bit of alcohol on a cotton swab or paper towel, and let it dry for a second. Then give the toe a squeeze. It should become a darker shade of pink.
Put the lancing device down, and if there is not a small blood bead forming, gently squeeze the toe. It often takes a few seconds for the blood to come up. If your ferret is starting to pull her foot away and the Ferretone is running low, apply more Ferretone. Note that the Freestyle requires an incredibly tiny amount of blood. Only 0.3 microliters! The tiny bit visible in this picture is nearly (but not quite) enough. This is why glucometers requiring larger samples tend not to work out with this ferret-toe-lancing technique. Here is a comparison chart; look at the sample sizes required by the various meters. When I had one that required 2 uL (microliters), I could not get it by lancing a toe and instead had to snip a nail too short. While it was not too horrible, they did flinch and pull the foot away and occasionally cry, and it made the toenails grow in kind of strangely. I have no such worries with the Freestyle and the toe-lancing; thus, I don't put off testing for fear of hurting them, and hopefully, I control their bloodsugar more effectively in the long run.
Record the resulting value. Keep a log of these, with the ferret's name, the date, the blood sugar value, and anything unusual in the ferret's behavior. If the number seems too high or too low for the ferret's behavior and condition, check the glucometer with the Normal Control solution, and if it checks out, repeat the ferret's blood sugar test again in a little while. Of course, if the ferret's blood sugar is too high or too low, you will need to contact your vet for advice and possibly in-house bloodwork. That's it!
Helpful hints:
- If you have been successfully testing for a little while and then suddenly, you can't make it work because you just can't seem to get enough blood, replace the lance inside your lancing device. A dull lance will not work very well and definitely causes this problem.
- If you have a ferret that does not like Ferretone, you can try another treat. Avoid anything sugary, since you are trying to get an accurate blood sugar reading here. Honestly, though, if she can't be distracted with a treat, you will probably have to get a helper human to hold her. Without a distraction, mine won't sit still long enough and get tired of me squeezing their toes. Luckily, all of mine love Ferretone.
- This method has worked great with all of my ferrets, up until I received an old, old frail ferret with perpetually cool feet and very thick paw pads. I must admit to difficulty getting enough blood from her. What has made it a bit easier is pressing a very warm, damp papertowel to her pads for a couple of minutes, and doing a bit of massaging and squeezing of the selected toe. It helps a bit. More updates as I work out what may help more with her...
This page is maintained by Pam Sessoms and was last updated 14 December 2006. I can be reached at: pjdutche@email.unc.edu